July 17, 2006

  • Mexico Continued

    Day 4
    This would be our most touristy day. We got on a Hotel tour of the Pyramids.
    MexBlogR - 073

    On our way out we saw some naked protesters (these still have their undies, I missed the fully naked wankers which hurt my blogging spirit, but alas).
    MexBlogR - 074

    We were off.
    MexBlogR - 075

    We made a quick pitstop at the Church of Three Generations: Aztec, Colonial, and Modern (unpictured).
    MexBlogR - 076

    An hour later, we got a this guy as a quick pre-pyramid tourist shop.
    MexBlogR - 077

    He showed us the fermenting maguey.
    MexBlogR - 078

    The artisans at work.
    MexBlogR - 080

    And then gave us a couple of shots.
    MexBlogR - 081

    Of the real deal pulque and tequila.
    MexBlogR - 082

    Just the better to try and sell us all the million little trinkets and serapes.
    MexBlogR - 084 MexBlogR - 083

    But we held strong, because the outdoors had the real treasures:
    MexBlogR - 085

    Every type of cactus imaginable.
    MexBlogR - 088 MexBlogR - 087 MexBlogR - 086

    Okay fine, Jenna did succumb to the trinket pushers, with a very dope sunburst.
    MexBlogR - 089

    And then, ta DA! We get our first glimpse of the pyramid of the sun.
    MexBlogR - 090

    But the tour first took us to the old houses, where we saw the very well and symbolically painted walls.
    MexBlogR - 092 MexBlogR - 091  

    Wouldn’t you love to live here?
    MexBlogR - 093

    I mean, look at your neighbor, the incredible Pyramid of the Moon, built almost 800 years ago.
    MexBlogR - 094

    We knew what we had to do.
    MexBlogR - 095

    We had to tame it with our climbing feet. Which we did.
    MexBlogR - 096

    But lo, what light through yonder archeological site breaks? Could that be our next nemesis?
    MexBlogR - 097

    The even taller Pyramid of the Sun?
    MexBlogR - 098

    Why yes it is.
    MexBlogR - 099

    And we took it all with even fewer breaks. Look at me at the top, celebrating my upstepping skillz.
    MexBlogR - 100

    Afterwards, we hit a pitstop at a restaurant, and I quaffed my thrist.
    MexBlogR - 101

    I thought we had seen enough for one day, but the tour had one more surprise for us, a visit to the Catedral de la Virgen Maria.
    MexBlogR - 102

    That’s the old version, which broke, so they built a new modern one.
    MexBlogR - 103

    They even got the pope to bless it.
    MexBlogR - 104

    Check out the cool outdoor bells.
    MexBlogR - 105

    And the façade of the oldschool churchy.
    MexBlogR - 107 MexBlogR - 106

    And the inside, which was being worked on.
    MexBlogR - 108 MexBlogR - 109

    All these Mexican churches have nooks with different saints, so you can make personal offerings and prayers.
    MexBlogR - 110 MexBlogR - 111  

    We then moved on to the new school church.
    MexBlogR - 112 MexBlogR - 113

    Which had these cool doors.
    MexBlogR - 114

    With cool stained glass.
    MexBlogR - 116 MexBlogR - 115  

    The inside was also pretty impressive.
    MexBlogR - 117

    With a cool huge organ.
    MexBlogR - 118

    Did I mention it was gigantic?
    MexBlogR - 119

    As the legend has it, a young Indian peasant, while walking on the hill which the church stands on, heard a strange voice. It was the Virgin Mary, who told him that he had to go tell the archbishop that she wanted a shrine built right there.
    MexBlogR - 120

    So the young peasant went, and was denied, the archbishop said he needed a sign. So he met with the virgin again, and said, shouldn’t you get someone with more clout, but she said the whole point was it had to come from someone lowly.
    MexBlogR - 121

    So she sent him to pick some roses to show the archbishop, which would be the sign. So he picked them, and wrapped them on his white linen serape, and when he presented them to the archbishop, the image of the Holy Blessed Virgin appeared on the cloth. Which now hangs on the place of honor.
    MexBlogR - 122

    The gift shop had every sort of effigy you need.
    MexBlogR - 124 MexBlogR - 123  

    Including the jewish virgin.
    MexBlogR - 125

    Thus concluded a great day of touring. Many thanks to our guide, whose name I now forget.
    MexBlogR - 126

    To finish off the afternoon in style, we went for a swim.
    MexBlogR - 127

    Which also helped ease the massive burns we both had.
    MexBlogR - 128

    That afternoon, my older brother Luis Jose finally arrived, making the Stephens’ family almost complete.
    MexBlogR - 129

    And I enjoyed a Stephens' home delicacy, toasted brownie with haagen daazs ice cream. The key is in the toasting.
    MexBlogR - 130

    Day 5.

    This would be another big tourist day. We started nearby, at the Museum-Home of one Diego Rivera.
    MexBlogR - 131

    The house has a good design.
    MexBlogR - 132

    With brightly colored walls.
    MexBlogR - 133

    But unfortunately, they were remodeling so we only got to see one side of the house. But it was still plenty.
    MexBlogR - 134

    Isn’t the resemblance uncanny.
    MexBlogR - 135

    I know it was here.
    MexBlogR - 136

    And if you didn’t know, that there is a practice bull head, for bull fighting.
    MexBlogR - 137

    Told you the architecture was cool, I mean, check out these stairs.
    MexBlogR - 138

    Next stop, the truly marvelous Frida Kahlo museum.
    MexBlogR - 139

    They didn’t allow us to take pictures inside, so all you get is pictures of postcards. Nice dining room, huh?
    MexBlogR - 140

    And what about the bedroom?
    MexBlogR - 141

    Thanks postcards (fuck you, museum guards).
    MexBlogR - 142

    The outdoor garden/plaza was awesome.
    MexBlogR - 143

    I had to step up my coolness factor a notch.
    MexBlogR - 144

    Inside the gift shop, they had some good examples of the old Mexican tradition of “papel picado.”
    MexBlogR - 146

    Which means picked paper, for obvious reasons.
    MexBlogR - 145

    This wall always impresses me.
    MexBlogR - 147

    Damn, the couple really liked those huge devils.
    MexBlogR - 148

    You know Jenna and I did.
    MexBlogR - 149

    We finished the classic museum trifecta with the Trosky Museum.
    MexBlogR - 150

    Which had a graffiti exhibition.
    MexBlogR - 151

    Some pretty cool stuff.
    MexBlogR - 153 MexBlogR - 152

    Even the meta kind, the graffitied graffiti bottle.
    MexBlogR - 154

    And why have a museum for an old Soviet? Because he was shot, under stalinistic orders, right here in his house in Mexico City.
    MexBlogR - 155

    Buried there too.
    MexBlogR - 156

    Right next to the chicken coop.
    MexBlogR - 157

    For most people, that would be a good day, but we kept on, going to the old plaza at Coyoacan.
    MexBlogR - 158

    The church was cool and deep.
    MexBlogR - 159

    With magnificently ornate frames.
    MexBlogR - 160

    And a cool little apse.
    MexBlogR - 162

    Outside we met a vendor with an interesting array.
    MexBlogR - 164

    And some beautiful lamps.
    MexBlogR - 165

    We finished the toursity day with classic sorbets from the famous Helados Siberia.
    MexBlogR - 166

    We came back to find a wonderful outdoor picnic.
    MexBlogR - 167

    Replete with the ultimate Mexican delicacy, a perfectly ripe mango.
    MexBlogR - 168

    Unfortunately, we got rained out, so my dad and brother’s Saint’s Day celebration got moved indoors.
    MexBlogR - 169

    Caitlin was psyched. Oh, wait, did I mention she got her wisdom teeth pulled?
    MexBlogR - 170

    Thus the end of another day.
    MexBlogR - 171

    Day 6.

    Only one major TT (tourist trap) remained, the city center. Where Mexico City’s tallest building, La Torre LatinoAmericana lies.
    MexBlogR - 172

    Balking at the earthquakes.
    MexBlogR - 173

    Right next door, El Palacio De Bellas Artes, a museum and concert hall, that sinks about an inch every ten years because the city was built on swamp land.
    MexBlogR - 174

    Inside, there was a temporary exhibition on Vladi, a painter I had never heard of, but who had some cool surprises.
    MexBlogR - 175

    The permanent collection houses some huge murals from many of the Mexican greats, including Orozco.
    MexBlogR - 176

    Siqueiros.
    MexBlogR - 177

    Who I thoroughly enjoyed.
    MexBlogR - 178

    And never forget the old frog himself, Diego Rivera.
    MexBlogR - 179

    With my favorite mural of all, Man at the Center of Philosophy and Technology.
    MexBlogR - 180

    All our art viewing was very rudely interrupted by a fire drill.
    MexBlogR - 181

    So we went to one of my favorite old buildings, The Azulejos.
    MexBlogR - 182

    Which is totally covered in these gorgeous blue tiles.
    MexBlogR - 183

    Nice, huh?
    MexBlogR - 184

    Then we wandered to a church across the street.
    MexBlogR - 185

    With a baroque façade.
    MexBlogR - 186

    And continuing the trend, a very ornate interior.
    MexBlogR - 187

    Complete with thumbs up Jesus.
    MexBlogR - 188

    And Dustin oracle.
    MexBlogR - 189

    Outside, Jose Luis Cuevas had some huge sculptures.
    MexBlogR - 190

    We then traveled a few blocks to the biggest church in South America.
    MexBlogR - 191

    Doesn’t look that big from afar, does it?
    MexBlogR - 192

    But it’s big.
    MexBlogR - 193

    And it has it’s own black Jesus.
    MexBlogR - 194

    Large organ.
    MexBlogR - 195

    And reconstruction.
    MexBlogR - 196

    Next door, El Palacio Nacional.
    MexBlogR - 197

    A big beaurocratic complex that houses the largest Diego River Murals.
    MexBlogR - 198 MexBlogR - 201 MexBlogR - 200

    They go on for several walls.
    MexBlogR - 199  

    Covering Mexican history.
    MexBlogR - 202 MexBlogR - 203

    Once again, our return was blessed with a delicious garden lunch.
    MexBlogR - 204

    Where Phoebe and Sam finally arrived, making the whole set of kids present.
    MexBlogR - 205

    Then my dad surprised Karen.
    MexBlogR - 207

    Cause it was their 21st Anniversary. She got the diamond earings she always wanted.
    MexBlogR - 208

    For night entertainment, we had another round of Dictionary, which Caitlin took down easily.
    MexBlogR - 209

    Don't worry the rest will come later.